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Showing posts with label LA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label LA. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Me and Top Chef Master Mark Peel


Please allow me to nerd out a little bit here.  I live in LA, where celebrities are as ubiquitous as the year-round sunshine.  I have cooked for some of these celebs, from D-List to A-List (Brangelina!), but nothing makes my head swivel like the sight of a Top Chef Master like Mark Peel.

Now chefs are notorious for being boisterous creatures who don't know how to use their inside voices.  After all, cooking is a craft and art form, and you know those creative types...

But Mark Peel was kind enough to let me have a picture taken with him in the kitchen of his new venture, Tarpit.  Tarpit, located right next door to Cube on La Brea, is a retro-fabulous cocktail lounge and restaurant that just opened 4 weeks ago.  In this age of "Tapas" and small plates I have come to expect miniscule portions and a disproportionately large bill, but the serving sizes were generous on the bar menu items.  For example, for their $9 duck sliders, I expected to receive one slider, but was happily surprised to get double. The Mac n Cheese was earthy and distinctive with mushrooms and sage and arrived at our table in a cute black cauldron; and the steak tartare was clean and classic and nicely textured. They have some kinks to work out, like all new establishments, but I loved the service, the atmosphere, and the menu selection.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

If these spices could talk...



Leaving is hard. That's why I rarely do it. As I am packing up my kitchen, in preparation for my departure to the west coast, I am finding more about myself as a chef. Take my spice collection for example--sorting through the multitude of glass vials, smudged with fingerprints, I realize I am becoming increasingly sentimental. How could I not be? There were the spice bags that my friend brought to me from India, and powerful saffron used in my favorite paella dinner party. That was when a bunch of my good friends came into this very kitchen to huddle around the stove, drinking Spanish wines, and taking turns stirring the seafood filled paella . Nothing tasted more delicious than eating such food that was made in the spirit of true friendship and fellowship.



Today I saw a copy of Andy Husband's cookbook called "The Fearless Chef." Aha! That's what I always wanted to be, a chef devoid of fears. That's what I tried to instill in my cooking pupils this summer when I made them do a "stinky cheese" tasting. But right now I'm a Sentimental Chef. I am feeling uncomfortably fond of my collection of spice bottles, and that's not good when you're trying to pack. I have already filled up two boxes of them to bring with me to California. Yes, I know they have cumin in LA, it's a melting pot, but not cumin from my kitchen, that's gone into my dishes. Twice last month, that cumin schlepped to New York with me in a blizzard.

The title to Andy's book reminded me that every chef I admire has a meaningful story to tell. If you are attuned to it, and if they are good at it, you can clearly taste it in their cooking. These are the chefs that can make a dish that is canonical, sexy, thought-provoking, hopeful and exciting. These are the ones that we love to adore.

In my research on the Los Angeles food scene, I am increasingly intrigued by the restaurant Providence. First of all, I grew up there, and have enjoyed its one-of-a-kind cuisine from the Italian salumerias of Federal Hill, to the hot weiners dusted with celery salt by McCoy Stadium, to piping hot clam cakes at Rocky Point amusement park and the quahogs that my dad used to make us dig. I still think now that it would be sweet to be a quahog digger. More importantly, I am struck by the meaning behind the word that inspired the name of the city, as well as one of the most buzzed about restaurants in the country. I take it's meaning as this: to have foresight, to have a vision, to have a story to tell. From what I've read, Chef Michael Cimarusti has a compelling story to tell, and I haven't even tasted his food. But that's my whole point in a nutshell. From the looks of it, he has created a desirable menu based on his love of the purity of fresh, wild seafood inspired by his fisherman Grandfather, Jo. My father, like Cimarusti's Grandfather, is "a man of the sea." He loves to fish down in Narragansett Bay, and he's quite good at it. In fact, he and I came to this country by way of the sea.

Rumor has it that there are plans to create a chocolate room at Providence. At first I thought it sounded odd to even think about mixing chocolate with seafood. I love chocolate and relish the time Jacques Pepin wisely advised me that to be happy, one must eat one piece of chocolate each day. And there's no question that I'm an elitist when it comes to New England seafood. I mean, even a skinny Jasper White once flirted with me. Just kidding.

So I had to call up my friend and sometimes collaborator, chocolate expert and author of the wonderful blog, The Tasty Show, Dana Zemack, to ask her if seafood paired well with chocolate.
Her answer, was: "for most part no." She said it would be an unusual pairing, a much better dessert for a seafood dinner would be a citrus fruit based dessert. The sweetness of chocolate along with its the lack of acidity would not pair well with seafood. However, Dana did recall one shrimp, coconut, and cocoa dish that she taught in a savory chocolate cooking class, but even then it was more cocoa than chocolate.

Then I came across a possible explanation to this question. Written on their website where they described their "a vision of creating a restaurant instilled with East Coast tradition mixed with just a slight twist of West Coast eccentricity."

And suddenly it all made sense, and I gained faith in divine Providence that if anyone could pull of a blended vision of seafood and chocolate off it would be this Chef. Okay, I'm being a little literal and dramatic here, but I have a feeling that soon a number of my future, fellow Los Angelenos will be asking each other my initial thought: What exactly is a chocolate room? And where can I get one?"

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Buddha's Hand



Sadly, many weeks have passed since my last trip to LA, where I frolicked under the ungodly California sun, drank wine and danced in a honky tonk in dusty Santa Barbara, and felt up every piece of produce in the farmer's market and then subsequently sliced and diced it up for my dinner. Of course I had to have a relaxed, LA style dinner party with some rising stars in the food and entertainment world, whatever that means. But first I had to navigate through the poorly designed Whole Foods in West Hollywood.

Yes, I'm spoiled. I have my pick between two Whole Foods, one is the size of an airplane hangar, abundant with free samples, with broad, well organized aisles, an attractively laid out cheese and wine shop, and a salad bar that could serve the incoming freshman class at Harvard. Side note: do not be fooled by the overpriced, flavorless prepared foods at Whole Foods, which will always end up disappointing your wallet and your stomach, except for the sushi (but I'm sure my LA friends will want to weigh in on that).

Then there's what I call Le Petit Whole Foods, which is a postage stamp, but convenient for those last minute ingredients, and if you want to avoid extra calories from free sampling, because they have none. Also there's a Shaws, but in general I avoid it because I hate being asked for my Shaws card, and I end up buying too much soda and junk food just because it's there.

And really, let's not forget about the Harvest Co-op, which in its prime was a hang out for patchouli smelling, anti-globalization, hobo-esque trustafarians, and self styled hippie millionaires on paper, vegetarians who don't mind fly swatting rotting vegetables, goody-two shoes who enjoy schlepping their reusable containers to stock up on flax seed oil. I do, however enjoy browsing the community wall displaying the psyche of my 'hood, wallpapered with ratty flyers offering promises of a new shiny racing bike, a way to find my inner animal soul, a poetry reading honoring someone's private parts, and sleep studies that can make you rich, and sick, very quick. Recently they have installed a slick looking cafe with a preachy, but forgettable name and all too narrow entrance, which appears to have been designed to prevent people with wheelchairs from rolling in to get their vegan muffins. I admit I have not tested this theory out, but I have had the coffee and for $1.90 I expect it fresh brewed, and hot. No such luck.

Just behind the Harvest on Mondays in season there is a lovely farmer's market, which is the closest thing replicating the multicultural David Vichter murals that adorn the buildings of Central Square. My downstairs neighbor, Fi Fi, a graceful Ethiopian lady who has worked at the Middle East Restaurant for at least several decades now is on one the murals. The other day I ran into her in the breezeway, told her I was trying to be happy, and she told me in earnest not try too hard. Point taken. I will have to have her over for dinner to get the lowdown on how to be happy without trying. Maybe then I will be depicted on a whirling dervish mural exemplifying how happy I am to be a swath of color on an endless rainbow.

Trust me, I've seen worse stores. Even still, last summer in New York, with some quick thinking I was able to whip up a lovely summer meal from a grocery store in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, where the Notorious B.I.G. probably traded food stamps for disappointment back in the day.

But there's hope for me yet. My little store across the street is an Indian spice store where a my neighbor "Singh" presides over the delicious Chai and Newport Cigarettes. We have a ritual. I order chai. He asks me if I want sugar. I say no, I'm on a diet. He shakes his head at me, and then proceeds to add 3 spoonfuls of sugar, while looking me straight in the eyes. This has been going for years.

Around the corner is a Trader Joe's, which is great for a single gal like me. There I stock up on cheap, decent wine, yogurt, almonds, and sad, but well packaged frozen goods that I would not be caught buying anywhere else.

In past seasons I have frequented the two farmer's markets in Central Square and Cambridgeport, always visiting my Jamaican farmer Al, for callaloo and local honey, just to hear the lilt in his voice. He is my human scale, telling me if I'm fat or not, and depending on my level of fatness he will pare down or pump up my order. Then there's the Hmong herb stand, with an abundant selection of Thai basil, mint, bean sprouts, pea tendrils, and cilantro.

Sadly, I must lament the closing of my favorite Japanese grocery store, Yoshinoya, where I was a card carrying Yoshinoya reward points member. One day it was there, stocked with individually wrapped sweet Japanese cucumbers, stacked of bright jars of kimchee, shiny slabs of sushi grade tuna, seductive looking candies, mylar wrapped shumai dumplings, and earthy tubs of miso that sent signals to that heavenly Zen center in my clouded brain. And suddenly it was gone. Always the reward points, never the reward, I say.

Unlike in LA, I can walk to all of these place within 5 minutes and feel at home in the world. But I did not feel at home in this haphazard (Hollywood up to No good)Whole Foods. I wanted to make a deconstructed chacarero consisting of grilled flank steak, chimi churri sauce, and snappy green beans. First setback--there was no flank steak to be had behind the butcher's counter. I searched around the store with my over-sized and under-filled cart, looking for Abby to hep me do some damage control--my entire meal was in jeopardy. We stood in front of the butcher for 10 minutes trying to coax him out of that little piece of flank steak, that we were convinced was must have been hidden and overlooked in the walk-in in the back. In truth we were being annoying, pushy, East Coast girls who needed their meat, like yesterday. Well, I was at least. Resigned, we bought some other cut, hoping for the best. My plan B for these situations is to get everyone really wasted before dinner so they don't notice the lack of Flank in my tank. I bought a Buddha's hand citrus as a gift for Katie, because I thought it was beautiful and meaningful. But even I know that beauty and meaning are not for sale, and when we arrived at the bottlenecked register I wasn't even in the mood to browse through Shambahla Sun and Yoga Today magazines like I normally do. Instead, my Buddha's hand was holding up the impatient line growing behind me, while the clerk made small talk and called over the intercom for a price check on my piece of citrus. In the mean time, a group of guys recognized my friend Camille and I started mentally comparing the contents of our grocery carts, satisfied that we were destine dot have a better meal than they were.

Back at the ranch, I was feeling nervous cooking for people who I did not know very well. Even though I get all preachy about being fearless in the kitchen, I still get temporary moments of nervousness. Cooking is a pure expression of myself, it's how I see the world, it's my joy, my pain, and my love all laid out on a dish. I can be an exacting perfectionist, and sly dominatrix in the kitchen, which is such a contrast to my normal demeanor. My point is, once I cook a meal for you, we are no longer strangers, and there's no turning back.



Camille's kitchen is a cook's dream. For starters she had good knives, a thick butcher block, a sensible layout and shiny, expensive pans. Abby and I decide to do a very simple, quick marinade with our meat consisting of olive oil, garlic, tons of salt and pepper, and a little Worcestershire sauce. Good meat does not need much more than that.



Inevitably when someone comes over for dinner they ask to help, but don't really mean it. At first I was reluctant to ask Michael "Terry" Thomas, a chef who had been on the Food Network and the Tyra Banks show, to help. But pretty soon we were all having fun, blanching green beans and then plunging them into ice water, concocting micheladas, and collectivley wondering if the olive oil had turned rancid. It had.







The crux of my dish was chimi churri sauce which is essentially a Chilean "pesto" made with cilantro, parsley, garlic, shallots, chilies, and lime juice. I had eaten many times, but I had never in my life made it before, so I did what I do best--I just winged it. A week later, I receive a text message from Camille: " By the way is it bad that i'm still using the pesto sauce" My response was something like this: "No but its chimi churri sauce its freakin cold here"



Michael "Terry" Thomas was safely installed on grilling duty in the backyard. Always seizing upon teaching moments he demonstrates how to cook meat to temperature by pressing on various parts of his palm. I am pressing my palm right now, and I'd say the whole thing is pretty medium-rare. He shows us the manly way to tenderize meat and starts beating it with the blunt edge of his tongs while grease and gristle fly everywhere, like the way spit gets in your eyes when you're conversing with a close talker. By the way, I secretly create a file in my head for anyone that mentions the word gristle while eating meat in my presence. Camille comes up with a great solution for all of extra fat that came with the non-flank steak I purchased. She lovingly cut it up for her adorable pooches, which was true to her sweet and thoughtful nature. And sure enough, the meat was perfectly tender and tasty.



After dinner, Abby and I have some fun styling a photo shoot of "food in decline" a la Irving Penn, with photographers Eric Blackmon and Richard Guaty. These two are funny, amiable, and really into taking pictures. Loaded with their high powered cameras they intensely snap pictures of the remnants of our meal and analyze their shots in lingo I don't understand. Stuff about lighting, shutter speeds, angles and props.





At one point they both aim their cameras and Abby and I. They pause to review the photo, shake their heads, quietly consult with each other and say, "One more." Again, they pause, look at the second photo, and then tell us to do the old kiss each other on the cheek pose. Later on Abby and I laugh about how pathetic we are that two professional photogs couldn't take a good picture of us and then had to resort to the classic two girls kissing pose.



And then we all immediately fell into a group food coma...

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

LA Recap

Upfront I'll tell you that we didn't go out to eat in LA as much as I had hoped. Spending time with friends, and days twittled away by the saltwater pool at The Standard Hotel in West Hollywood took precedent. But I did bring back some observations of the LA food culture.

1. Don't listen to what they tell you about healthy California cuisine. They have mastered the quick service and fast food burger joints. The Astro Burger sits across the street from Fat Burger and down the road from In n Out burger and Carl's Jr. Don't even try to get through the drive through at they burger joints. The best bet is to order at the counter where there's less people. At all hours of the day and evening there is a huge line of people outside of Pink's hotdog stand. I haven't seen anything like it except for at Coppelia, the nationalized ice cream stand in Havana.

2. Sushi restaurants are divided into a few categories. I was told that if you want sushi go to Koi, "for the scene," but if you want the best sushi, go to some place in a strip mall on the way to the airport. One LA actress friend offered to take us to Koi because she was placed on "the list" by her well connected manager. Apparently if you are not on this list there's now way you will get in. There is one sushi restaurant where "all of the people, including the chefs, look like comic book villains," according to one Manhattan transplant.

3. We saw a fancy Jaguar crashed into a decorative rock in the parking lot of The Farmer's Market on Fairfax, the first of several auto accidents we witnessed in one weekend. Though there were no farm stands to speak of, The Farmer's Market is an indoor/outdoor eatery filled with great food stands, and tourist shops. We enjoyed some quick tacos and horchata one afternoon as well as some dishes at Banana Leaf, a delightful Singaporean and Malaysian stand owned by a family of Ashkenazi Jews from Singapore.

4. Definitely take up someone's offer if they invite you over for drinks and appetizers, especially if they are a jam it up foodie like our friend Laurel. She had the best spread of nibbles I'd seen in a long while. We gorged on her California rose and marinated sardines with fresh radishes while enjoying the view of her citrus trees from the outland hills of Silverlake.

5. Savvy LA area residents are always on the go in their vehicles. Google Text service is a hip way to get information when you're on the move. Text 'Google' or 466453 to search for recipes for trips to Whole Foods or Trader Joe's, or directions to Le Pain Quotidian or the location of that Relapse Records barbecue.